Archive for category Climbing

The Young and the Restless

I said goodbye to my teenage years this month and decided that I should cross some things off of my to-do list before I get too old!

Round one: Ice-climbing.

We had two guys come into ONB a few weeks back who were prepping for an upcoming ice-climbing adventure up the Stairway (Provo Canyon). I mentioned that I’ve wanted to try that for years and they invited my roommate and I along. We rented some crampons, boots, and axes from Hansen Mountaineering (Orem) and enjoyed a late afternoon of sunset ice-climbing.

Stairway Climbing

Stairway Climbing II

I was fortunate enough to meet some guys who are pretty experienced climbers but for those of you interested in taking an introductory course, check out 12 Finger Adventure. We ran into the owner, Dan C., while we were up there. Nice guy, great climber, give him a call!

Round Two: Escalante

Myself and some friends took a trip down to Buckskin Gulch (right outside of Kanab) last weekend. As expected, it was muddy, cold and…awesome. The hike was beautiful (Buckskin Gulch is 44 miles long!) but cut short by some deep pools of freezing water. Lesson I took from the weekend: don’t wear 3+ layers in a zero degree bag….

BG

Freeze

I’m now ready to take on the adventures that 20 will bring!

Happy adventuring…

A little Bouldering trip before the snow sets in.

So, we decided to take a little trip before the snow semi-permanently hindered us from climbing real rock, and limiting us mainly to plastic. That being said, this post comes about a month to late, however late is better than never.

So me and a few friends after having a good long season on routes decided to finish off the season with a little strength training. We took a trip down to Joe’s Valley. We mainly stayed in New Joe’s, but we sort of wandered. We spent the last few days of October leaving a little flesh behind on each boulder we crossed. We had a blast although i would have preferred to not freeze to death, but it was easily worth it in my opinion. We did in the end come across snow and cold weather, but heres a few photos of the time we spent.

Fun in Arches

I truly believe that life is too short. So many places to see and so little time to do everything. I have been to Arches numerous times and never cease to find something new and different. This trip was for my wife’s birthday weekend and I talked her into adding a hike with a couple of rappels. Not exactly a canyoneering trip, but we did have a lot of fun and the views were fabulous. Rated 3AI on the canyon scale.

U-Turn technical canyon

Just inside the Arches park is the Park Avenue trailhead. To the south is a crack approach to the top of the ridge. From there you basically walk the ridge, downclimb or rappel 2-3 times, stop to just sit and admire the fantastic views, and end with about a 70′ rappel. The next thing you know is that you are back at your vehicle. Total trip time with lots of scenic view time is about 2.5 hours.

Headache. And that it was.

On the outside of Zion’s famous Mount Carmel Tunnel stands one of the most legit traditional climbs, at least in my book. Okay, so it was my first time climbing the crack, but that doesn’t mean it wasn’t a good one. And maybe I didn’t make it all the way up by myself, but again, it was intense.

The first pitch (picture shown) is rated a 5.9+ in the crack climbing world; an equivalent of a 5.11 ish in the sport climbing world. (See, I told you it was legit). I attempted the route a number of times, making it a grand total of about 15 ft above the ground. It was a little frustrating for one who has to finish what she has started, but it was certainly an adventure to remember (I’ve even got myself some sweet scars to last a lifetime). Lucky for me, I was able to “cheat” my way up with the use of ascenders–something I hadn’t done before–and still experience the grandeur of the Great Arch to the east and East Temple to the north.

Zion is a beautiful place. One of my favorites to date. If you’ve got any sort of knack for adventure–whether it be trad climbing, canyoneering, or good ole hiking–I’d recommend Zion in a heartbeat.

Give Headache a try and let me know how YOU do. :-)

Rock Exotica Fall 2009

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Copied from Rock Exotica website. Rock Exotica was started in a small garage in 1987. Rock Thompson had been experimenting with solo belay devices and purchased a war surplus mill for $250. He and his wife took it apart and rebuilt it over Christmas time to make it operable. The mill was all manual, so Rock had to turn both handles at the same time to make curves. The resulting device worked well, although it looked like something a caveman might have carved out.

A few months later more modern equipment was purchased and Rock Exotica began business. The company quickly became known for machining products out of solid alloy, which no one else was doing at the time due to the expense. Climbers and rescue people began contacting Rock Exotica asking and suggesting other high-end pieces of equipment. Some of the classic early products were the Wall Hauler, the Rescucender, the first Prusik-minding pulleys, and (admitted not very creatively named) the Swivel.

The company prospered and in the early 1990’s Rock began working in another venture making carabiners for a European company. Many of the Rock Exotica products became privately branded for another company.

In the early 2000’s Rock Exotica once again became active in designing and manufacturing the unique equipment we do best. The machinery is a little bit different now. We have a dozen high-end CNC machines. Some of the equipment includes machines that few, if any, in the industry have, such as high speed horizontal machining centers and multi-axis multi-task machines.

We are proud to carry these great items. Come touch, feel, and salivate over these great climbing pieces anytime.